The Don of Southern Italian Food

Photo: Don Alfonso 1890 has a warm and comfortable feel

The Lisboa Hotels Complex has an incredible four Michelin-starred restaurants under one roof. Robuchon au Dome and The 8 both have three stars and Tim’s Kitchen and The Kitchen have one each. Perhaps this rather fantastic collection dazzles guests to the point where they overlook the other nine restaurants in the complex. One that is absolutely worth considering is southern Italian restaurant Don Alfonso 1890.

On a recent visit we tried some delicious dishes and were lucky enough to sit down with Chef Alfonso Iaccarino to find out more about his food philosophy, his cuisine, and why the restaurant has yet to receive a star (a quick Google of the restaurant and you will learn that the Don Alfonso 1890 in Italy has two Michelin stars and is the highest rated restaurant in southern Italy).

Don Alfonso is located on the third floor of the Grand Lisboa. Upon entering you almost feel as if you’ve walked into someone’s house, albeit a fancy one. A welcoming vibe extends from the friendly and welcoming staff to the cozy sofas and cookbooks located in the foyer. The murals on the wall in the dining room - beautiful views of the coast - are similar to those you would see if you were in the original Don Alfonso. The paintings however aren’t the only things that will make guests feel as if they’re dining in Italy. Around 80 percent of the ingredients used in the dishes are imported direct from Chef Iaccarino’s eight hectare farm located on the Sorrentine Peninsula, which means the menu changes with the seasons.

Our lunch started with a sizeable bread basket that contained at least six different kinds of bread that were served with extra virgin olive oil (made from olives grown on Chef Iaccarino’s farm, naturally) and some burro di panna, a soft fresh butter that was delicious. The menu stays very true to its southern roots, so that butter was the only butter we saw throughout our meal. Cream is another ingredient that is practically banned from the kitchen.

Photo: Homemade scallop gnocchi on a layer of black squid ink sauce with sea urchin and celery shoots

After sampling a few of the bread rolls - tomato, spinach, sourdough and potato - we were brought an amuse bouche of homemade scallop gnocchi on a layer of black squid ink sauce with sea urchin and celery shoots. It was incredible how much flavor even the smallest piece of celery had, no doubt thanks to the plentiful sunshine of the Mediterranean. This was one of the signature dishes on the menu and definitely worth trying.

Photo: Smoked octopus served with potatoes and beetroot with ginger flavored arugula, curry and salmon roe

Next up was smoked octopus served with potatoes and beetroot with ginger flavored arugula, curry and salmon roe. This dish took us by surprise as it not only looked incredibly contemporary, but I wasn’t expecting to like it as much as I did. The flavors meshed incredibly well, with the strong flavors of the curry and roe complimenting the perfectly smoked octopus rather than overpowering it.

Photo: Ravioli stuffed with buffalo mozzarella and marjoram served with corbarino cherry tomato sauce

Not knowing what to expect with the next dish, I had to suppress a squeal of delight as I saw it was the ravioli stuffed with buffalo mozzarella and marjoram served with corbarino cherry tomato sauce that I had earlier eyed on the menu. Believing that nothing containing buffalo mozzarella can be anything less than amazing, this dish proved me right and was easily my favorite, and probably the most traditional, of the whole meal.

Photos: Lavender-flavored pan-fried sole served with spinach, mustard and lemon (left) and Montana lamb chops with eggplant puree and pachino cherry tomatoes filled with mozzarella, capers and black olives (right)

The two main courses were lavender-flavored pan-fried sole served with spinach, mustard and lemon; and Montana lamb chops with eggplant puree and pachino cherry tomatoes filled with mozzarella, capers and black olives. Not being a huge fan of lamb, I preferred the sole which was delicate and subtly flavored. My dining partner pointed out that the lamb was so tender it could be cut using the side of his fork, and the fact that it was consumed within mere minutes should speak for itself.

Photo: fresh strawberries with buffalo ricotta sorbet in cold balsamic vinegar consommé

To end it all was a dish made up of fresh strawberries with buffalo ricotta sorbet in cold balsamic vinegar consommé; and mulberry terrine served with yogurt sorbet and candied lemon zest. Usually one to opt for the chocolate-centered desserts, I was plenty pleased with both and will cross my fingers that the mulberry terrine will still feature on the menu on our next visit.

It is no exaggeration to say that if you are dining at Don Alfonso in Macau there is every chance you are eating the exact same food as those dining nearly 6,000 miles away, and after sampling the food we are utterly baffled over the Michelin star mystery.

Photo: Chef Alfonso Iaccarino's food philosophy is very much reflected in his fresh and healthy menu

Chef Iaccarino’s food philosophy is simple: fresh produce, plenty of vegetables and extra virgin olive oil with a serving of meat from time to time. His mantra has certainly convinced us that a dining experience at his restaurants won’t leave us with food guilt. Don Alfonso offers those living in and around Macau the rare chance to dine on some of the best ingredients that Italy has to offer. You can also purchase various products that have been made using produce from the Don Alfonso farm including extra virgin olive oil, tomato sauce and limoncello.

Our visit left us thrilled at having eaten such an amazing lunch, but it also left us scratching our heads about the mystery as to why Don Alfonso 1890 is sans Michelin star. We will have to wait until October to see if what is clearly an oversight is rectified. Until then Don Alfonso will continue to serve delicious and healthy southern Italian food.

For reservations call (853) 8803 7722

www.grandlisboa.com

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